The Best Walking Streets and Routes in Edinburgh

There is a rhythm to Edinburgh that simply can’t be captured from the seat of a taxi or the window of a bus. Every cobblestone, every narrow alley, and every stretch of historic street seems to pulse with stories from centuries past. Over countless trips, I’ve learned that walking is not just the best way to explore this city—it’s almost a rite of passage.

From the moment I first stepped out of Waverley Station, luggage in hand, and inhaled the crisp Scottish air, I felt a thrill that only walking could sustain. The city reveals itself layer by layer: the medieval Old Town, the stately Georgian New Town, the colorful quirk of Victoria Street, and the tranquil greenery of Holyrood Park. Every step feels like uncovering a secret. In this guide, I’ll take you on a comprehensive, deeply personal tour of Edinburgh’s walking streets and routes, complete with practical tips, favorite shops and cafés, ticketing advice, and reflections on why each area is so special.

1. The Royal Mile

Location: From Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, Old Town

The Royal Mile is the spine of the Old Town and my starting point for nearly every walking adventure in Edinburgh. I usually begin at the Castle end, standing on Castle Esplanade, gazing at the fortress perched above the city like a sentinel over centuries of history. The scent of freshly baked pastries drifts from nearby cafés, mingling with the faint tang of sea air carried from the Firth of Forth.

The cobblestones beneath my feet seem to hum with echoes of the past: the sound of horse-drawn carts, the chatter of market traders, and the occasional melody of a bagpipe player entertaining tourists. Even after multiple visits, I find myself pausing every few steps to absorb the architecture, the murals, or the tiny details in shop windows.

Highlights & Experiences

• Edinburgh Castle: I often book my tickets in advance through Historic Environment Scotland (£19.50 adult). The Castle’s ramparts offer panoramic views of the city, and the Crown Jewels and Stone of Destiny transport me directly to Scotland’s royal past.
• St. Giles’ Cathedral: A quick detour takes me inside this Gothic masterpiece, where the light streams through stained glass and illuminates the intricate carvings of the Thistle Chapel. Entry is free, but I always leave a small donation.
• The Real Mary King’s Close: For a deeper historical dive, I take the underground tour of hidden alleyways. The guides’ stories, full of dark humor and period detail, make me feel as though I’m walking beside 17th-century residents. Tickets are around £19.

Personal Reflection

Walking the Royal Mile is like stepping into a living museum. I usually stop mid-stride at a street performer or linger in the tiny antique shops tucked between pubs. One of my favorite moments happened during a morning stroll when a sudden sunbeam hit the stone walls just right, creating a golden glow over a shop selling hand-carved chess sets. It’s these spontaneous moments that make walking the Royal Mile unforgettable.

2. Victoria Street

Location: Curving down from the top of the Royal Mile toward Grassmarket

Victoria Street is arguably Edinburgh’s most photogenic street. I often start at the top, where colorful façades create a whimsical tunnel of charm. As I meander down the curve, I discover artisanal shops, quaint bookshops, and small cafés tucked behind bright-painted doors.

Highlights & Boutique Recommendations

• House of Muir: I’ve spent hours here, fascinated by Scottish textiles, tartan scarves, and locally made jewelry. The staff always offer advice on unique souvenirs that aren’t found anywhere else in the city.
• Armstrongs of Edinburgh: This tiny bookstore is a treasure trove for literary enthusiasts. I once found a first edition of Robert Burns’ poetry tucked between stacks of contemporary novels.
• Whiski Rooms: A cozy, romantic spot for sampling single malts or enjoying a small plate of haggis nachos. The staff are knowledgeable and always willing to suggest pairings.

Personal Reflection

I remember one grey afternoon when the sun briefly broke through the clouds. The rainbow of Victoria Street seemed even more vibrant, and I paused to take a photo that I later realized perfectly captured Edinburgh’s quirky charm. It’s impossible not to slow down here, to linger, to let the city imprint itself on your memory.

Practical Tips

• Weekdays are less crowded, offering a more intimate experience.
• Wear sturdy shoes; the incline can be steep and the cobblestones uneven.
• Don’t miss the small hidden alleyways like Advocate’s Close, which open onto quiet courtyards and secret views of the city.

3. Grassmarket & Cowgate

Location: South of Victoria Street

The Grassmarket is a lively square surrounded by historic tenements. I love this area for its energy, its combination of cafés, pubs, and craft shops, and its palpable sense of history. The old marketplace feel is still alive, despite the influx of tourists.

Highlights

• The Last Drop Tavern: I often stop here in the evening. Its 18th-century architecture and dim lighting make it perfect for imagining the tavern as it was centuries ago.
• Greyfriars Kirkyard: Slightly off the square, this graveyard offers quiet moments and fascinating stories. The grave of Greyfriars Bobby is particularly touching. Entry is free, and guided tours are about £8.
• Mary King’s Close Extension Shops: Several shops along Cowgate offer handcrafted souvenirs, vintage clothing, and Scottish-made ceramics.

Personal Anecdote

One rainy afternoon, I ducked into a small coffee shop on the corner of Grassmarket. The warmth of the café and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee was a stark contrast to the damp chill outside. Watching locals laugh and tourists marvel at the architecture, I felt like I was witnessing a live painting of Edinburgh life.

Tips

• Visit early in the day to avoid large tour groups.
• Check for special events; the square often hosts weekend markets and music performances.

4. Princes Street and Gardens

Location: Running east-west along Edinburgh’s New Town

After exploring the Old Town, I often cross to New Town for a contrast. Princes Street offers sweeping views of the Castle and historic gardens. Walking here feels different: the air is more open, and the grid layout makes navigation easy.

Highlights

• Scott Monument: Climb the spiral staircase for panoramic views. Tickets are £8 via Scott Monument.
• Jenners Department Store: A historic shopping experience with Scottish specialties.
• Balmoral Hotel: I’ve enjoyed afternoon tea here, watching the bustling streets below. Reservation via The Balmoral, tea costs around £40.

Tips

• Princes Street Gardens is perfect for a picnic or a brief rest.
• The gardens also provide excellent photography opportunities with the Castle looming above.

5. Leith Walk

Location: From the city centre to the port district of Leith

For a slightly longer walk, I take Leith Walk. This area is less touristy and offers a blend of street art, independent cafés, and harbor views.

Highlights

• The Shore: Waterfront restaurants serve everything from fresh seafood to innovative cocktails.
• Royal Yacht Britannia: Tickets are £17 via Royal Yacht Britannia.
• Independent cafés: Bross Bagels makes a perfect snack stop.

Tips

• Late afternoon offers beautiful sunset light reflecting on the Firth of Forth.
• Combine walking with public transport for a circular route back to the city centre.

6. Calton Hill

Location: East of Princes Street

For one of the best panoramic views, I climb Calton Hill. The monuments, open lawns, and skyline views make it one of my favorite spots to pause and reflect.

Highlights

• Nelson Monument and Dugald Stewart Monument: Free access; ideal for photography.
• Sunset walks are particularly magical.

Tips

• A windproof jacket is advisable; it can get gusty.
• Morning visits are quieter and allow for unobstructed views.

7. Arthur’s Seat & Holyrood Park

Location: East of the Royal Mile

A more challenging walk is the ascent of Arthur’s Seat, an extinct volcano. The hike provides spectacular 360-degree views of the city, the Firth of Forth, and surrounding hills.

Tips

• Wear proper walking shoes; paths are rocky in places.
• Carry water and light snacks.
• Start from Holyrood Park for the easiest route.

Booking and Travel Recommendations

To maximize a walking tour of Edinburgh:

• Flights: Use Skyscanner UK for flights to Edinburgh.
• Accommodation: Booking.com UK and Hotels.com UK for central Old Town hotels.
• Attraction Tickets: Pre-book via official websites like Edinburgh Castle, Royal Yacht Britannia.
• Restaurants: Reserve tables via OpenTable UK to avoid long waits.

Personal Reflections

Edinburgh rewards curiosity and patience. Walking allows me to stumble upon hidden courtyards, quiet cafés, and artisan shops I would otherwise miss. Each street has its own personality, its own stories. Even after multiple visits, I still discover new details—the texture of a stone wall, a mural behind a corner, or the laughter of locals in a side street.

Walking in Edinburgh is not simply transportation—it’s a narrative, a way to engage deeply with a city that wears its history and culture on its streets. From the Royal Mile’s bustling energy to Arthur’s Seat’s expansive views, the city invites exploration and reflection at every step.

Whether you have a day or a week, a walking tour is the most immersive way to experience Edinburgh, revealing the layers of history, culture, and everyday life that make it so extraordinary.